What is the best exercise for climbing finger strength?

There's no single answer — among the pros interviewed by Lattice Training, board climbing was the most popular because it loads the fingers in a climbing-specific way, while others prefer pickup edges for controlled progressive loading or simply projecting crimpy boulders. The consistent theme: pick a method you enjoy enough to do consistently.

Is hangboarding or board climbing better for climbers?

Several pros who used to fingerboard heavily have shifted toward board climbing, citing skin damage from maximal fingerboard sessions and the fact that board climbing trains fingers while you're actually moving. Fingerboarding still shines for measurable, number-driven progression.

How do climbers improve technique like toe hooks?

Deliberate practice volume: substitute the technique into climbs where you'd normally do something else (a toe hook instead of a heel hook) and add it to every boulder in your warm-up. Key execution cues are full-foot contact, whole-chain tension from toe to core, and hips positioned under the hold.

Climbing Training: What Elite Coaches Say

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How 6 pro climbers train finger strength

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